India 2 – The Gorkhas

The Gorkhas/Gurkhas form the fighting units of five countries. The UK, India, Singapore, Brunei and their native Nepal. In the UK they have been treated intolerably. While much of the world has moved on from the racist attitudes of the colonial era, the British Government still decides to act unscrupulously when it comes to the Gurkhas.

India also has its fair share of Gorkhas, many residing in and around the Darjeeling region. As a result, thee are calls for a separate state within the republic, which may occur depending on Central government. Like in the UK, the Gorkhas of India have fought for their adopted country in many wars.

War is a futile excuse for humanity to practice, but for now, we humans are still mistrustful of our neighbour and so war is a direct consequence of that. I never mock those who are in the armed forces, I only wish I had their bravery. I don’t. But I do despise the politicians who send people off to war. While their own children are safe and sound, it is the children of others that has to fight in battles that will be forgotten in the future. Enemies become friends, new priorities take place and the cycle of war takes place elsewhere. And the lists of the dead get longer…

The war memorial at Ghum is a beautiful place. Located in the hills surrounding Darjeeling, it is a well maintained kept area, and a sombre reminder of the number of Gorkhas that have died in conflicts. The scary thing is the number of names on the memorial and the space left for future names.

Today is Armistice Day. To commemorate the war to end all wars. It has been hijacked for political reasons by politicians as always, by sections of the media as always. Some like to use it to wave a flag, an arbitrary symbol of identification. I have never lived through a war, I have never fought in one, but I have visited a war zone, but luckily, I was able to get out. War is nasty, it is terrifying, and the only winners are the arms dealers. War will continue for many years to come, we as a species have not overcome our mutual distrust of one another. But it is important to remember, that behind the names on these memorials, scattered around the world, are families left behind, in grief on all sides of conflicts. They are the names of real people on those memorials, and there are many more unnamed. It is tragic that these battles will still continue, more names will be added, more tears will be shed. It is important to remember this tragic loss of life before encouraging more destruction in the future. And it is important to respect the memory of those that have gone before, without the cheap politicising of such memories.

India 2 – A walk round Darjeeling…

Waking up to a view of Kangchenjunga, the allure was just there. What was north of the clouds, a land of mystique and intrigue. I consulted my map, and the Sikkim border was only a 15 miles or so away. An easy distance to walk, and somewhere I have always wanted to go. To mystical Sikkim, to the land of Shangri La. Come on, this is me, ‘El Director’, if there is one tenant of my personality that is predictable, it is my sense of curiosity and wanting to see what is beyond that next ridge. So after a hearty plate of momo’s (top picture in that link), I set off towards the Rangeet River, the water course that was the border between the states of West Bengal and Sikkim.

On I walked, downhill towards the valley floor, past tea estate after tea estate and through villages not often seen by foreigners in this much detail. While there are many travelers from beyond India’s borders, few of them avail of the opportunity to see what lies beyond the air-conditioned jeep that takes them from tourist honeypot to sight seeing opportunity. And while Badamtam or Lebong may not feature high on a visitor’s ‘to-do’ list, they are remarkably peaceful places in the foothills of the Himalaya.

This was Gorkhaland that I was walking through. If you are looking for a new Indian state, this will probably be the place to look out for. The government of West Bengal is fighting tooth and nail to hold onto its hilly areas, but the local people are firmly up for their own separae state. And it is a land of the Gorkhas, with symbols of the Nepali community everywhere and with hints of the lands further to the north, the Tibetan plateau is everywhere to see. As you walk through row after row of tea bushes, prayer flags flutter in the wind, villagers pray at shrines and temples and there is a sense of mystique in the air…

Onward I walked, continuing downhill, and all the time talking with locals. Just past Badamtam a group of children asked me where I was from. A range of ridiculous guesses (poland) and not so ridiculous guesses (Brazil) came forth until I told them the truth. There were a few surprises but after buying a bag of tomatoes I bid them farewell. You see, it is far more entertaining to walk than drive. You meet people, you feel the vibe in the air and you can nibble on some great local produce. The tomatoes were reviving as well as a great source of Vitamin C and a handy way to rehydrate myself on the walk. For you see I was descending further towards the River Rangeet. In the distance I could hear the water rumbling off the rapids. The tea estates had given way to tall forests as the climate became warmer. Yes, I had descended quite a bit towards the Sikkim/West Bengal border. Then I turned a corner and saw it, my destination. Just beyond the water, the fabled land of Sikkim…

(to be continued…)

India 2 – Darjeeling

Wow, wow, wow. What a place to go. Yes, it is the original tourist trap and for good reason. It was made well. And so welcome to Charlie’s official guide to Darjeeling town…

I arrived in Darjeeling after a day’s journey from Shillong. First a bus to Siliguri then a jeep for the four hour drive up to Darjeeling. On arriving in the town, I was not impressed. Dirty, chaotic and swimming in sewage there is no ceremony on entering Darjeeling. Bit I persevered. With a backpack filled with goodies and souvenirs, I trundled up the slippery concrete steps, my legs still aching from the trek in and around Nongriat Village. However, I came onto the main square of Darjeeling and I was suitably impressed. This looked more like a hill station of world fame.

I tried a couple of cheapie hotels, but they were full, it was peak season after all. Then I suddenly had a brainwave. This is Darjeeling, right? Sikkim was only a few kilometres away. I wander if there is a ‘view’ of this fabled land somewhere in the town, and a hotel nearby. So I hiked it, after a quick aloo chaat round the ridge of the town. Here I went past small Buddhist shrines carved into the mountain face. Darjeeling is located in between Nepal and Bhutan with Sikkim to the north and Tibet not too far away, the influence of the Himalayan cultures is strong on this town. You will probably find more authentic Tibetan culture here than in China, and certainly they are far nicer here than their compatriots to the north.

So onward I made my trek and suddenly I turned the ridge and saw a wonder to my eyes. Kangchenjunga – the third highest mountain in the world, located on the Indian/Nepal border stood proud in the near distance. The Himalaya, my first view of it since 2002 when I crossed the China/Pak border. Beautiful and breathtaking, there is a good reason why I love this part of the world. Acting as the buffer between the two most populated nations on Earth, there is an air of tranquility when you see the majesty of the Himalayan range. I found a hotel and could look out every morning at Kangchenjunga. But I wanted to do more than look. The land of the Himalaya was calling to me once again. Sikkim was in my sights…

General guide:

Darjeeling is a four hour jeep/bus ride or a (fun) seven hour train ride from Siliguri, the nearest town on the plains which is linked by train, road and air to the rest of India.

There are plenty of hotels to choose from but if you are really fussy then book in advance. The crowd seems to stick to the main area near the main square, but there are plenty of places to stay along the northern ridge of Darjeeling with (fantastic) views of Sikkim, instead of looking out onto the green tea estates that surround Darjeeling.

Food is readily available. If you want western sit down fare, you can find it here. The bazar in the lower part of Darjeeling is the place to pick up your fruit and veggies, fresh. At night however, it is the dirty, ‘lower’ part of town that is filled with hawkers trading their freshly made banquets onto a hungry populace. Avoid the advice in the guidebooks and head down to the more funky part of town for cheap and tasty bites.

Beware of the monkeys…

India 2 – Mighty Meghalaya

Beautiful Meghalaya, India’s self styled abode of the clouds just happens to be one of my favourite places on this Earth, and I have barely scratched the surface of this state. Dominated by the matriarchy of the Khasi, Garo and Janita peoples, it is essentially is one large, wet plateau. And it is gorgeous. Lacking in nightlife, but making up for it in the daytime, the people of Meghalaya are fun loving, hard working and surrounded by some of the most beautiful scenery in the world. Green hills as far as the eye can see, waterfalls everywhere and of course hidden villages filled with mystique and intrigue…

And as I have mentioned earlier in this blog, there is a rich culture to discover in this land. Along with great food, Meghalaya is a destination that is much maligned by travelers to India. The North East has a reputation for being remote (true – but only due to the farcical Bangladeshi border) and dangerous (not the parts I have been to). It is left untouched by the common tourist. Many people within India (including the immigration officers at the airports) are surprised that I am willing to travel to Meghalaya, but for people beyond India, it is a place that is not even on their tourist radar. Quite simply, it is not well publicised. A shame for the local tourist industry but blissful for people seeking a little bit of peace in one of the world’s most crowded countries, it is bliss to find this empty quarter. Both times I have traveled to Meghalaya, I have only bumped into foreigners twice, which is surprising when you head into the rest of India and meet the rest of the world coming to see this fantastic land.

And contemplating my next big trip, I think I know where I am heading off to…

India 2 – Kolkata Nights…

The big bad city of the Bengal, home to 13 million people (give or take) and on of those places that I always held in anticipation. After all, the notorious nature of the city, with the infamous ‘Black Hole’ tag has always meant a certain amount of intrepidation from the lowly traveller.

How wrong I was. Far from being a city filed with woe and dread, it was a city of fun! Fantastic sights to see, the best street food in all of Asia and a city with a metro – always important when you need to navigate around a metropolis. Sure, you had to keep your eyes and ears peeled for the net con, but overall, it was nothing that I could not handle. Plus, I really have to go on about this, the food was spectacular!

So what to do while there? OK, I only spent two nights in Kolkata, so this is only the briefest of write-ups. But I would definitely recommend the following:

1) Eat your way through the city.

I cannot overemphasise the quality of food available in Kolkata. From the humblest puri stand to elaborate stalls with seating areas serving rice and curry, the food of Kolkata is fresh, cheap, varied and readily available. And the amount of fixed price stalls means that there is no need to check your prices with the owners. Bliss!

2) Make some time in the Maidan

One of the world’s largest urban green spaces, the Eden Park is a beautiful part of the city. Along with the Hooghly River, this space provides a much needed lung to the city. Cooling, filled with greenery and grazing cattle, the Victoria Monument and Cricket Ground also provide tourist gems to take in. Simply one of the best parks in the world, not something that you would automticaly associate with Kolkata.

3) Hop on the tram.

Slow, old, rumbling, but the fact that they all originate at Esplanade means that hopping on one of those beasts of the road will always take you back to ’square one’. Plus at Rs4, who can really complain? India’s only tram system, the oldest in Asia, and by a miracle of the engineering crews, still running, despite the government’s attempts to repeatedly close down the system. Ride it while you can!

4) Catch a flick!

‘Nuff said.

5) Take in the Nightlife.

Kolkata really comes alive at night. The air cools down from the heat of the day, and the city comes out to party. Everywhere I have been to in India (except Meghalaya) livens up after sunset, but in Kolkata the city itself changes character. Its life is lead on the streets, with millions of residents and tourists alike coming out to enjoy the air, do a bit of shopping and of course, indulge in the culinary delights that vie for your attention. Forget about slinging back whisky in some lousy hotel bar, if you wan to really enjoy Kolkata, then head out into the night…

India 2 – Eating Well

Oh, that is one thing I did in India. The cuisine of a vast country with its cultural whims and ways, means that the food on offer is spectacular and tasty. And trust me, the cultural influence of India is evident in the eclectic nature of the cuisine. Dumplings in India? Whether it is an influence from Nepal or Tibet it is now a Bengali speciality. Being India it is a country that grows all its food, so eating is fresh and cheap! Also, I am a bit of a hungry fella, and for me, nibbling my way around a country is as important as breathtaking sights and meeting the locals. The experience of my stomach is as important as any other experience.

And remember where to get the best food. It is at India’s street stalls. No matter where you go in the country, there is always someone with a little kerosene/gas stove and a handful of ingredients cooking up a delight that will fill up the casual traveller such as myself. Cheap, cheerful and fresh, I never once got sick in my travels through this country and I ate at every imaginable street stall around. And it was not just a diet that did not just kept me in survival but gave me the strength to meet the Khasis, hop on the train, cross a tree root (rubber not bamboo) bridge and watch great movies. I also did a lot more during my second trip to this wonderful land, thanks to the great food on offer. Stay tuned fr more travel tales from wonderful India!

India 2 – Catch a flick!

If there is one country you have to catch a flick, it has to be India. And while I was in Kolkata, I had to dive into one of those wonderful picture houses.

Dil Bole Hadippa was not the greatest film around, but it was entertaining. I do not understand Hindi and with a lack of subtitles, what I really need is a simple story, a few good songs and pretty girl on the screen. Dil Bole Hadippa amply filled this need. And being a film lover, it was not just the film, but the atmosphere, munching away in the cinema all those great snacks.

One guaranteed way of entertainment while in India – hit the movies!

India 2 – Crossing of a few streams in Meghalaya – Living Root Bridges

From my first visit to India, I recommended the traveller to partake in five activities. I have already talked about meeting the Khasis and hoppping on a train. But where would I find an iconic bamboo bridge to cross a body of water? Well, only in India would I find something better than a few bamboo stilts. How about a living tree root bridge. Mystified? Well, let me explain to you, dear blog reader, about a wonder found near the border of Bangladesh, nay, let me tell you a story of my wanderings in Meghalaya…

It started in Shillong. I was talking to the manageress of the hotel and she told me of the living tree root bridges that existed near Cherrapunji. I had also read about them in a pamphlet I picked up at the local tourist office. I was mystified. A bridge, made of a tree. Not some dead log, but the live roots of a tree, spanning across running bodies of water? How was this possible? Surely, the weight of a person should collapse the root? Wait, a bridge made from tree roots? I was more a doubting Thomas than a believer in such propaganda.

But I organised a trip to Shillong with a local friend. We took in the sights and the surrounding area. He showed me some of the spectacular waterfalls that dotted the landscape. After all this was the wettest place on Earth. Another record for India, but luckily for me, I had visited the edge of the Shillong Plateau on one of its dry days…

Now, if you want to know why this is the wettest place on Earth, it is a simple lesson in geography. A couple of hundred miles to the south lies the Bay of Bengal (the largest bay in the world – a lot of records here in India). Its warm waters are ripe for generating lots of storms, plus the general wind flow of the South Western Monsoon means that a lot of wild weather is pushed up towards the land. The shape of the Bay of Bengal is akin to a funnel. And just like any good funnel, the Bay of Bengal concentrates all the moisture towards one point. Now Bangladesh is only a few metres above sea level, so it gets a bit of rain. But the real storms hit the Shillong Plateau. You see the Shillong Plateau is not a gentle sweeping rise up, but has the shape of a cliff face. All this warm, moist air from the Bay of Bengal hits the Shillong Plateau is forced to rise up. It cools and so squeezes the moisture out of it like a sponge. This water becomes rain, and it absolutely buckets down on Meghalaya. Cherrapunjee, right at the southern end of the Shillong Plateau get pelted. Here’s a photo to illustrate:

Yep, that’s the edge of the Shillong Plateau. You see how the hills suddenly drop off into Bangladesh. You can see why Bangladesh is always under water, it is due to being downstream of the wettest place on Earth. All the water that falls on the Shillong Plateau has to end up somewhere. Oh, and one more thing, note those tiny bits of white in amongst the green. They are settlements and people live there in those little villages. But how do you get to those villages. No road can actually be placed on the side of those hills, the slope is just too steep. But yet, there are people living there. How do they get to and from their village?

My friend and I were riding along and we got talking about the living root bridges. Sure they existed, but I wanted to see them. To my surprise, he had never seen them, despite knowing where they were. The weather was never right, always too rainy. But today was as bright and sunny a day as we could get. I was up for it, and I stated why not. It was late in the day, coming up to 1pm, but if there was a time to start, it might as well have been now…

So we descended the hills. In the space of 5km we had dropped some 800m – and you could feel the heat rising up from the plains. We were a few km as the crow flies from the edge of the Republic, and more importantly at the end of the road. The road just stopped. A dirt track for the last kilometre, suddenly there was a small turning circle and a set of steps leading down. So this was how those villages negotiated those steep hills. Not by wheel, but by foot.

Now there is a reason why you have to watch out for the weather. This is one steep set of stairs, not always in good condition, and sometimes made out of granite rocks rather than concrete. In other words, in the rain (or fog), you will slip. Badly. And it is a long way down. Still, this was the only way to get to the valley floor and see the living root bridge. So my friend and I walked down each step, chatting, sipping on water and chewing on kwai but wary of the steps that we were walking on. We eventually came to a village, and much to our mistake, decided to turn left. On and on we went until we realised that wandering through jungle was just not going to get us nearer to that famed bridge.

We were tired. The heat was killing us both. There was a hunger in the stomach and pain in our legs. But there was also something calling to us. The unknown, a willingness to explore and the knowledge that our destination was so close. So we headed back to were the path diverged and took the right hand path. In a few minutes, we arrived at a village and we heard the water from a nearby river. Sure enough, ahead of us, stood the first of many living root bridges that dotted this part of the world:

Yeah, I was a believer. These living root bridges really did exist. And my goodness, it was scary to cross. There was a bit of shaking, and those rapids beneath were terrifying as they were loud. But they were a crossing point, and something that definitely put a few hairs on my chest. Amazing, as these bridges could live up to 200 years. Amazing, as despite all the modern technology available, these would outlast the modern steel footbridges that were placed elsewhere in the valley. Amazing as this was a piece of human ingenuity from the depths of antiquity. How long have people been tapping the roots of these vast trees to cross the river? When was this discovered? And it is interesting to see its spread along this part of India. The local interactions, the flow of knowledge across the land. An anthropological feast for the senses as well as a feat of engineering, merging a biological and ecological wonder into a humble bridge for local residents to go about their daily business.

But…ah yes, there is always a but…there was another bridge that I wanted to see. And it was in the next village. Time was running out. Climbing back up to the road would be no fun in the dark, but we had both come so far. So on we pressed, further into the forest, crossing stream after stream, some on those wonderful wooden bridges of the living trees and some on shaky modern suspension bridges of wire and concrete. But there was one bridge I had to see, unique in the world, and possibly the highlight of my trip to India. It was coming up to 5pm, the sun was fast descending behind the hills and time was limited as we virtually ran the rest of the way to Nongriat Village. Up a final set of steps, round a corner and suddenly, there it was, before my eyes, a wonder to behold!

Getting there and away:

There are plenty of root tree bridges in the Khasi and Janita Hills Districts of Meghalaya, but the ‘double deck’ living root bridge that is unique (yes, the only known double decker in the world – another record for India), is only found near Cherrapunjee. It is 13km from Cherrapunjee town, 8km by road and 5km by foot down some damn steep steps. Take good footwear, be prepared to go barefoot on the slippery granite parts and take supplies. Be prepared for wild weather and sudden changes, and to be blunt, you need to be fairly fit to do this. But the challenge is there, waiting to be discovered. And remember, there are people living here. If they can climb up and down those steps, so can you…enjoy it, respect it and love it!

India 2 – Hop on a train…The Darjeeling Mountain Railway

I really liked Darjeeling. Really liked. It was a good place to go. Really good. Darjeeling to put simply, was one of the most fun packed places a traveller could visit. But a bit of history is needed before I continue this blog post.

Darjeeling is a British invention. The hills and surrounding countryside has been there since India smashed into Asia 50 million years ago, but it was the cold loving British, needing a place to rest from the heat of their old capital that founded Darjeeling as a hill station and a centre of tea growing. In 1835, the lease was secured on Darjeeling by the British and so begins the history of one of India’s oldest tourist resorts. Right from the beginning, Darjeeling has attracted a multitude of visitors from both far and near to take in the hills, enjoy the cooling climate and to revel in some of the best tea grown anywhere on Earth.

Of course, being perched on top of a hill, people needed a way to get to the hill station. You could have taken a horse and cart. You could have walked. But it was an 80km hike uphill. And there was a need to get the tea off the estates and to Calcutta for export. So in 1881, the Darjeeling Himalayan Railway opened for business. Granted UNESCO heritage status in 1999 (later joined by the Nilgiri and Shimla Railways) it represents one of the finest examples of 19th century engineering to be found on Earth and is fully operational. It is also fantastic fun to travel on!

I have never seen so many people smile as when the steam train puffed into the platform. Whether they were jaded local or train spotting geek, there was never a scene of so much happiness as that surrounding the steam filled frolics around Darjeeling station. Shunting away, whistling to and fro and with the local traffic playing a cat and mouse game with the locos, the Darjeeing Himalayan Railway is probably the happiest place on Earth. Or one of the happiest. You see, we humans do not care about speed and efficiency (the railway takes twice as long as the equivalent road journey), we just want fun! And there is plenty of fun to be had by riding the rails here in the hills of North East India.

And my goodness, do the staff of the Darjeeling Himalayan Railway put on a show! Despite the multitude of languages thrown at them (remember, this is world famous railway) they handle us passengers with remarkable patience and skill. Spectacular in every way, my only complaint about the railway is that there are not enough trains put on. Demand far outstrips supply, especially in the peak tourist season for the ‘toy train’ as it is locally known. Whether you want to take the little tourist ride around Darjeeling or the full seven hour journey down onto the plains, make sure you are ready to wave at all passer-byes on your rail journey. Despite the daily running of the train, the local people are very friendly and are obviously proud that this train passes right in front of their homes.

To be honest, I was happier than a kid in a sweet shop. Like every other person, I love trains! My father was a fireman while in Sri Lanka, my Uncle was a train driver and my Grandfather was a station master. So this form of transport has always resonated with me. Plus compared to any other form of transport, the train is infinitely more civilised. Gently trundling through the countryside, with complete right of way, able to stretch the legs and chat with my fellow passengers, the train is the most enjoyable way to travel India. Whether a quick rattle on a local train, a long distance journey or even a mountainside treat, the train is the only way to see India. And the only way to see the hill country of Darjeeling is by the toy train!

Getting there and away:

The Darjeeling Himalayan Railway runs pretty much everyday from Siliguri to Darjeeling calling at every station en route. In the monsoon (May to September) there are plenty of landslips and interruptions, but outside this, it will pretty much run come what may. There is also a special tourist train that does a loop around Darjeeling, taking in the war memorial at Batasia and the museum at Ghum. Tickets can be purchased anywhere on the Indian Railway network, online or through travel agents.

India 2 – Meet the Khasis

The North East of India is pretty isolated. Not just due to the border with Bangladesh, which is a political isolation, but also due to the terrain. It is hilly. Very hilly. There is the Himalaya, the Shillong Plateau and the Patkai Range. Anywhere there are hills and mountains, you will have isolation. To be blunt, they are cold, hard to reach and offer little level land on which to settle on. However, wherever you are in the world, the hill country will offer a fascinating insight into local culture and customs. A culture and custom that has evolved, in part, as a response to the harsh terrain that they live in.

A little known fact. India has the largest indigenous population on the planet. In this day and age, with all the cultural mixing that has happened throughout humanity’s history, it is pretty difficult (and futile) to define someone as a ‘pure native’. However, 8% of India’s population (around 85 million people – a population larger than any single EU country) is considered to be ‘indigenous’ by the Indian government. That is a lot of people. And that is a huge amount of cultural diversity in one single nation. It also shows that despite the best efforts of certain political forces within India (and the stupidity of many ex-pat Indians in the UK), that the country has always been and always shall be a melting pot of some of the most diverse people to be found in any nation on this Earth. India’s culture is far more complex and intricate than is generally portrayed on the popular media.

The North East of India geographically is a small part of the country. However, the diversity within is reflected in the amount of states packed into this small area. Eight in total. Mighty Assam, the largest of the lot and a place that I must go back to. Mysterious Sikkim, a Himalayan hideaway and a taste of mysterious Shangri La. Nagaland and Manipur, although troubled are very much a part of the Union. Mizoram in the south seems to be part of India’s bible belt. Arunachal Pradesh, a recent contender for news sites is again, another land dominated by the Himalayas. Tripura, tiny and damn hard to get to. And finally Meghalaya a state that I was about to write off, until a chance visit on my last trip made me fall in love with the state. And it was where I spent most of my time on this holiday to India.

Meghalaya is home to the Khasis. A matriarchal society and some of the most beautiful women on the planet. Not just because of looks, but because of personality – they have a lot of personality. I have travelled to a fair few matriarchal areas in Asa, and uniformly they are very fun places to go. The attitude is far more relaxed, the whole population is out and about doing work and generally everyone takes life with a pinch of salt. I swear, it is the men who make this world an awful place to live. We guys need to retire and let the women take over. They would make a far nicer society. (no comments about Maggie, that is obviously an exception to the rule)

I visited this fascinating museum in Shillong’s suburbs. A complete history of the people of the North East. Well, maybe not as complete as I would have wanted, but a really great illustration of the culture of the North East of India, considering how little information there is on the area. Anyone who wants to learn a little bit more about North East India, then this museum is a must. But, as the curator Father Joseph told me, ‘To learn about a people, you must learn the language.’

My Khasi is awful. In fact, it is more than awful. The Khasi people are well educated, and so their English is immense, making travel in their land an easy task. But my understanding of the Khasi people and their culture is severely hampered by my lack of Khasi. You can pick it up, but in the short time I was there, it was impossible for me to learn anything more than basic greetings and foodstuffs. I had a great time in Meghalaya, but I needed far more time than I planned. It is a fascinating part of the world, and I am only just beginning to explore it. I think I know where my next holiday is going to be…Meghalaya, and the Khasis, are a lot of fun